Soaking of the Hooves:
The Importance of Daily Exposure to Water
by Yvonne Welz ©2006
#1 Reason to soak your horse's hooves:
Dryness causes contraction.
Excerpt from The Hoofcare Specialist's Handbook:
Hoof Orthopedics and Holistic Lameness Rehabilitation, by
Hiltrud Strasser, DVM & Sabine Kells:
"Insufficient exposure of the hoof to water is, at any age, a
main cause or contributing factor for contraction.
"In the hoof, the horn containing the most water (frog, bulb,
white line, periople) dries out the fastest and easiest. If the
white line dries out, it loses volume, and as such shrinks,
leaving open spaces where the corium lamellae used to be. Wall
and sole connective horn likewise dry out quickly and shrink.
This can be easily observed on a "slice" of hoof trimmed off
with nippers: within a matter of hours to days, the horn will
shrink to half its size as it dries out.
"Prevention of Contraction Due to Lack of Water: Daily
immersion of the hooves in water past the coronet for at least
15 minutes (during the "dry" seasons, which includes winter with
below-zero temperatures). Ideally, provide the horse with a
natural water source, where it will immerse its own hooves when
drinking every day."
However, climate is a huge factor. You may not get
good results from soaking in an arid climate. Note from James &
Yvonne Welz: We live in some of the driest area in the country,
Phoenix, Arizona. James found that many of his client's horse's
hooves healed in direct proportion to the amount of soaking they
receive. The horses that received minimal soaking remained
contracted longer, and tend to have more soreness and other
issues. They were also extremely difficult to trim, and the
quality of the horn remained poor, with a hard but brittle
quality. The owners that soak religiously often had the quickest
and greatest success. The horn quality changed to a pliable,
elastic horn that was extremely hard and tough, yet easier to
trim. It is as though this horn were more "alive" than that of
un-soaked hooves. At the same time, these horses usually have
feet that quickly de-contract, and they are able to exercise
over rocks, un-booted, much sooner. In the beginning of rehab of
hooves, it seems that soaking is often very helpful as you
attempt to de-contract the hooves.
However, not all horses responded well to soaking long term -
in some cases it caused the hooves to deteriorate over time.
Often soaking even created drier hooves than not soaking.
This was very confusing, as we tried to sort out what worked and
what didn't work. We found that, in this desert climate, it is
more important to keep moisture inside the hoof than it
is to try and force it into the hoof. A water-wet hoof will
quickly evaporate and often take integral hoof moisture with it.
The horses with the most problems were ones with a free-choice
water hole - the constant wet-dry situation caused major
problems! Short, frequent soaks are not a good idea in a dry
climate - plan for infrequent, longer soaks in water. Many
people opt for a little overflow or mud around the water trough,
seal the outer wall with a dressing or sealant occasionally, and
the horses do just fine.
How often to soak? Ideally, every single day, for
every horse in a wet climate. In a dry climate, longer soaks a
few times per week will be more beneficial, and please use
something (yes, like a hoof dressing - we recommend Hoof Alive)
to seal that water in. Soak in plain water over the coronet
band.
How long to soak? It really depends...If you are
soaking to soften the hooves before trimming, you may have to
soak for much longer than 10-15 minutes - in a dry climate, it
may even take overnight soaking in hoof boots to soften the
hooves enough! You will just have to experiment.
If you are soaking the hooves to help eliminate contraction,
follow the advice of your hoofcare professional. There may even
be periods of overnight or continuous soaking, initially, to
achieve a certain effect.
If you are soaking just to re-hydrate the hoof and white
line, and to maintain a healthy foot, you can soak for just
10-15 minutes per day in wet climates (like Germany). However,
in dry, desert climates (and severely dry seasons in wet
climates): the evaporation of water from the hoof capsule
can weaken the hoof wall and cause hairline cracks. Hoof horn is
weakened when moisture is wicked out quickly. The solution for
desert climates is to soak for longer periods (such as an hour
or two) a couple times per week, than apply a hoof dressing to
seal the moisture into the hoof and prevent that rapid
evaporation.
Keep in mind that every climate zone is going to create
different challenges for your soaking regimen. Also, different
seasons (and rainfall quantities) will make your soaking needs
change. Horses kept on grass have moister feet, in general, than
those kept on dirt. But no matter what your area is like, you
need to make sure those hooves have enough moisture to keep them
from contracting, and to keep the white line tight and healthy.
And if you are starting out with contracted hooves (like most!)
then water is one of the most important tools you have to change
your horse's hooves back to healthy ones.
"Foot Spa"
Photos Below provided by Claudia Garner:
"I have a soaking chart in my barn, every horse
that has been in the water for 15 - 20 minutes (this is hot and
humid South Carolina) gets a check mark, every day. It makes the
biggest difference in the trimming. For a while we didn't do it
as religiously and I could not get a hoof knife through the hoof
anymore (despite of my husband's best efforts to keep the knives
razor sharp with a bench grinder and muslin wheel). I have
attached the pictures of our "foot spa". It did cost about $
500.00 in material to build. It has a drain and gets cleaned
almost daily. It was well worth the sweat to build, the money
spent. Our horses have a very good horn quality." -- Claudia,



©2006 by The Horse's Hoof. All rights reserved. No part of
these publications may be reproduced by any means whatsoever
without the written permission of the publisher and/or authors.
The information contained within these articles is intended for
educational purposes only, and not for diagnosing or medicinally
prescribing in any way. Readers are cautioned to seek expert
advice from a qualified health professional before pursuing any
form of treatment on their animals. Opinions expressed herein
are those of the authors and do not necessarily reflect those of
the publisher.
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